Is one of the most prominent american designers in the history of fashion, “a true poet” according to Christian Dior and a “cutting and sewing master” according toCristobal Balenciaga. Often nicknamed ‘the fashion architect’, he could boast a list of celebrity clients that included Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. We are talking about Charles James, the first ever US  couturier who, despite not being widely recognised by the public, is  still one of the industry’s most influential figures and the focus of ‘Charles James: Beyond Fashion’, one of this year’s most eagerly awaited exhibitions.

Through the numerous outfits, sketches, paper patterns and drawings, the exhibition retraces the career of a man that loved to define himself as an artist rather than a fashion designer. His revolutionary techniques, his design, his scientific, almost mathematical approach to fashion trends, his ability to develop structured and complex but yet light and airy gowns, are some of the elements that make this event an incredible, one-of-a-kind show.

The exhibition, on display at New York’sMetropolitan Museum, is going to be open to the public  between May 8 and August 10, 2014. This occasion will also see the launch of the MET’s new €40m wing, which is going to be known as the ‘Anna Wintour Costume Center‘ as a tribute to the Vogue Magazine editor.

On May 5, 2014 the exclusive and glamorous MET Ball will once again reunite the fashion industry’s crème de la crème. Dress code: rigorously Charles James.

Photo: 1) Charles James Ball Gowns, 1948, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast 2) Charles James with Model, 1948, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, Beaton / Vogue / Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast 3) Nancy James in Charles James Swan Gown, 1955, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s 4) Charles James Butterfly Gown, 1954, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photograph by Cecil Beaton, The Cecil Beaton Studio Archive at Sotheby’s 5) Austine Hearst in Charles James Clover Leaf Gown, ca. 1953, Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Photographer Unknown, © Bettmann/CORBIS