An evolution, a reimagining, a change. In his first collection as creative director of Roberto Cavalli, Peter Dundas goes back to the label’s fundamental elements – its essence – in order to define the new Cavalli woman of today. Freedom is the keyword of Cavalli Spring/Summer 2016 woman collection, freedom of the body and of the creative process. Peter Dundas found inspiration for it in the rich fashion legacy of Cavalli house – and thanks to his professional background he revived those codes mixing them into new young and dynamic proposition that “accentuates the ease and the freedom that the brand represents to me,” he said. Peter Dundas looked to the Eighties for inspiration with the brand’s spring-summer 2016 collection. Acid wash denim, bold pastels and boxy jackets brought a retro attitude to the runway. It was certainly a change from the bohemian, rock and roll style Cavalli has become synonymous with. Still, as Dundas noted in the show notes, this was an homage to the house’s codes with an exploration of “big cat” prints, dreamy gowns and vibrant hues–all Cavalli staples. The final looks embraced bold ruffles with body-con silhouettes and lace-up details. The focus was on form fitted mini dresses, sleeveless biker jackets, leggings, animal prints, candy colors, ball skirts combined with sweatshirts while leather is washed to a velvet softness and juxtaposed to precious silk. We can say that the Cavalli S/S 2016 woman collection plays with boundaries, they are blurred and ultimately redefined. Pegasus, emblem of freedom, is the main theme of the collection, either as source of inspiration and as a graphic, recurrent in prints, jacquards and fashion-jewelry. Denim was central to the debut collection. The high-waisted washed-out jeans and matching cropped jacket — immediately recognizable to anyone who lived through the ’80s — was a bold move. There also were tough-looking stonewashed denim biker jacket vests and a pretty-in-pink belted denim mini-dress. Shoes included sweet suede booties with bows or double-buckles.

Cavalli S/S 2016 woman collection in a twist: sequins and fringe were deployed on day, not eveningwear, worn with a silvery zebra-striped pant. Long chiffon open-front dresses, fastened with big bows over mini-skirts, were meant for the night. The billowing chiffon train was vintage Cavalli, the new “mirage” materials make a step into the future of fashion, together they create Cavalli’s password for a world of luxury: freedom.

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